17)
...which will be completed when the offending edge is removed

18)
Next a loop is created to form the eyesocket.

19)
Then the polygons are extruded inwards twice to form a slight edge around the eyelid.

20)
Now is the best time to create your eyeballs or at least some standins to model around. We also add some edges to form the tearduct which will also double for the creases formed when the nose is drawn up in disgust.
_
notes:
I find it extremly helpsome to give the iris some color because it makes it easier to place the eyelids. People often judge eyes bigger than they are so when the iris is finally textured you might end up with a perpetually surprised stare. Having an eyeball to model around also helps getting the shape of the eyelids right from the start rather than eyeballing it (pardon...) and then having to fit them later on when you have much more vertices to move about.
The size and placement of the eyeballs is crucial to how the face turns out later on. A wrong placement can create too pronounced cheeks if set too far apart or out, too heavy brows if too far in, a cross-eyed look if too far to the sides, etc
The anatomy books will tell you that:
-everyone's eyes have approximatly the same size of 25mm in diameter. Women's and children's eyes look bigger because their faces are smaller
-a head is 5 eyes wide; the space between the eyes equals one eye.
-the eyes's vertical positions are set exactly in the middle of the head
Since this is more of a stylized head I've taken some liberties and exaggerated the size of the eyes. Hey, it's my tutorial!

21)
Now we'll add several loops around the eyes that will help form the eyelids and the creases above and below them.
_
note:
I can already hear the experienced subD modelers cry in agony: there is an offending tri-face close to the tearducts!...but no worries, it's good to get rid of as many tris as possible but later on in the modelling stage when more edges are around there will be enough opportunities to get rid of them. Also in some cases tris can be hidden or are even welcome. Alternatively you could also just show me the finger and continue reading...

22)
A close row of edges help sharpen the edge around the eye when subdivided.
_
note: the narrower two edges are the sharper a crease you will get when smoothed. This is very helpful to create bevels or corners and get away from that typical subdivision "molten wax look"

23)
The eyes are roughed out so we can continue with the nose. A couple of edges more will aid us with that.

25)
Let's push those verts out and give her a nose.

26)
Two rows of edges and some fiddling with their ends give us the top of the nose and also help form the sides of the nostrils.

27)
Another row cut across beneath the nose gives it some more form and will enable us to extrude the nostril inwards

28)
But before we do that we'll add a narrow row of edges to give the nose some sharpness when smoothed. A 5 sided poly will result on the nose but will be taken care of in a moment

29)
Some more adding and removing of edges completes the form of the nostril.

30)
...at which point we can extrude it inwards

31)
You can add some detail inside of the nose as well. A loop of edges will do for me here to sharpen the look.

32)
Some more edges help form the nostrils and also take care of that 5 sided poly from before.